Are you having a Fourth of July party? Or are you just stuck in a wine rut and wanting to try some new, tasty and great but affordable American wines? Then read on, as I have three top bottles from California, where Franciscan fathers planted the first vitis vinifera vines in the 1770s for Catholic mass and consumption by both themselves and explorers.
The USA is in love with wine, and last year consumed the largest volume of any country – around 33m hectolitres compared to second place France’s 24.7m hectolitres – with only France, Italy and Spain producing more of it.
These readily available bottles from the Golden State of California, where increasingly the three Cs (cannabis, craft beer and cocktails) are also apparently big things, would make an ideal partner for any Fourth of July revelries…
1) EASY-DRINKING CHARDONNAY
Kendall-Jackson Vintner’s Reserve Chardonnay 2019, California (vinvm.co.uk & henningswine.co.uk, £17.90-£22.50)
For over three decades, Kendall-Jackson has remained unremittingly dedicated to producing fine-quality wines from grapes grown in California’s cool, coastal vineyards. The first release of this famous, come-hither Chardonnay from a hugely popular American wine brand was in 1983 (the first case was sold at the Oyster Bar at Grand Central Station), when it became the first winner of a Platinum award for an American Chardonnay at the American Wine Competition. It’s a really lovely, accessible, pretty, yet fulfilling newly-landed release. All the good stuff is here: Pineapple, papaya, vanilla, nutmeg, peach, ginger, honey and apple tart; the oak is integrated and balanced; the finish fresh. Barrel-fermented largely sur lie, it was then aged seven months in French (5% new) and American (7% new) oak. It’s well-shaped, textured and politely powered, but chiefly it’s just exquisitely drinkable. Quality rarely looks this stress-free! California dreaming.
Alc 13.5%
2) PLUMP & HEDONISTIC CALIFORNIA CABERNET SAUVIGNON
Frei Brothers Sonoma Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2018, Alexander Valley, California (Waitrose & Waitrose Cellar, £18.99)
From Alexander Valley – a warm interior location in northern California’s Sonoma County, north of San Francisco between Napa and the Pacific (where Cabernet is king) – that’s hot in the day but very cool overnight, this is an exuberant, rich red with dark fruit and an intense blast of cassis, blackcurrant, raspberry, cedar and blueberry. The polished, silky and seamless palate unfurls layer upon layer of black fruits to escort the red; its tannins round and soft. Easy rider style. Ideal for a midsummer barbecue. Burgers ahoy!
Alc 14.5%
3) LOVELY BUBBLY FROM ONE OF CALIFORNIA’S CHILLIEST GRAPE-GROWING AREAS
Roederer Estate Quartet NV, Anderson Valley, California (Hedonism Wines, The Wine Society, Majestic, ChampagneDirect, £23.70-£25.99)
Let me introduce you to a super stylish sparkling wine from storied Champagne house Louis Roederer’s first-rate Californian arm in the dramatically cool, coast-hugging, fog-shrouded Anderson Valley of wild and tranquil Mendocino County – California’s northmost qualitative outpost of the vine. It has just right the amount of fresh orchard fruit and citrusy flavours before it moves into more complex territory with some baking spice, creamy and toasty autolysis flavours, plus hazelnut and apple crumble. Excellent. One for eggy brunch dishes, sushi, lobster risotto and fish/white meats with creamy sauces. The grapes are 60% Chardonnay and 40% Pinot Noir. Go get!
Alc 12.5%
4) DRY-HOPPED AMERICAN BEER FOR JULY 4TH BBQS
Brooklyn Hoppy Amber Lager 4 x 330ml cans, New York City (Tesco, £4 with Clubcard, until 12 July)
Toasty lager anyone? Brooklyn Brewery has been at the core of New York City’s craft beer scene since its launch in 1988. Its piney, juicy, peppery and biscuity lager has been a runaway commercial success and is today one of the leading Vienna-style lagers on the shelves, although Brooklyn prefers to say it’s fashioned from a ‘pre-Prohibition’ recipe. An American original that’s better canned than bottled. It’s also perfect with pizzas, meaty BBQs, burgers, farmhouse Cheddar, Manchego, Stilton and roast chicken. Use your Tesco Clubcard.
Alc 5.2%
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THE QUICK SIP ON AMERICAN WINE
Established by a cobbler named Jean Jacques, the oldest estate in continuous operation in the USA is the Brotherwood Winery (1839) at Washingtonville in Orange County, New York state, some 60 miles north of New York City.
The USA is the world’s fourth largest wine producer. There is a winery in every state, even Alaska, but California accounts for over 90% of wine production – ten times the area under vine in Washington, the next largest grower.
Follow James on Twitter: @QuixoticWine
American Flag Illustration: Dawn Hudson
