So if you’re celebrating why not make this year’s celebration an all-Californian affair? Here’s a trio of starry, versatile wines that certainly deserve a place at your table alongside the turkey…
RECOGNISED the other side of the Atlantic as the start of the festive season, what better grounds for cracking open a bottle of California’s premium wines than for Thanksgiving merriments? Whether you’re an American in the UK, meeting friends from (or even in) the US, or just simply wanting to eat and drink well on Thursday November 25, these three outstanding Californian wines – positioned more in the middle price bracket – will take your Thanksgiving meal to new heights.
The state offers the lot when it comes to wine styles and makes considerably more wine than any other New World producer. Only France, Italy, and Spain produce a bigger volume than the US, and nearly 90 percent of US wine comes from California. From a chic posh sparkling wine to a standout red find from a recent trade tasting, here’s my selection of three of the best. Cheers to the United States of the Vine!
1) A discounted white from the Russian River Valley of Northern Sonoma AVA (specific vineyard zone) where the Pacific fog is drawn inland to fill the space of rising temperatures
Frei Brothers Sonoma Reserve Chardonnay 2019, Russian River Valley, Sonoma County, California (Ocado, save £3, down from £17.99 to £14.99 until 30.11.21, Alc 13.9%)
Chardonnay is California’s most popular white grape. It has a rich texture, abundant fruit aromas—think orchard and soft stone fruits with a squeeze of lemon – and often a toasty or vanilla tone from barrel fermentation. Creamy and broad, yet still fresh, this discounted cool-climate rendition has delicious apple pie, white peach, orange marmalade and tropical fruit notes with some subtle vanilla, a mellow toastiness and a long blanched almond finish, with lingering fine acidity. From an AVA benefitting from dense, early morning coastal fog, which advantages both Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. One for grilled chicken salad, creamy pumpkin soup, pan-roasted salmon, a cheesy crab soufflé, creamy chicken dishes, roast chicken, mac and cheese, plus Brie and Monterey Jack. Spot on for the price before November 30 (a fine £3 Ocado discount). Christmas turkey is calling. 10/10 for the light bottle.
2) Brilliant posh bubbly from an AVA at the northern extremity of San Francisco Bay
Domaine Carneros Brut 2017, Napa (Vino Wines, Noble Green Wines/House of Malt/Noble Grape, £22-£25.99, Alc 12%)
When it comes to sparkling wine, the Golden State gives Champagne (and English sparkling wine) a real run for its money. Domaine Carneros was established in Napa in 1987 and soon become renowned for its very stylish bubbly. Aged three years in bottle, this sophisticated Pinot-driven vintage traditional method sparkling wine from Taittinger’s outpost in relatively cool and windy Carneros, which straddles Sonoma and Napa counties (some 40m north of San Francisco), is a fantastic bottle to kick off the festivities. It’s refined and finessed, with petite, lively, creamy bubbles. A belter with a honeyed and toasted brioche depth. Chill it for seafood, especially oysters, plus grilled and roasted white meats. Exquisite.
3) Flavour-saturated red from Lodi, directly east of San Francisco Bay between Sacramento and Stockton
Stem Theory 2016, Michael Klouda Wines, Lodi, Central Valley (Lea & Sandeman, £19.75, case of 12 price, Alc 14.5%)
Nearly half of California’s celebrated premium Zinfandel vineyards are located in Lodi, a large, warm, inland zone directly east of San Francisco Bay, around 70m east of the Pacific. It also has interesting pockets of exciting other grapes, including Cabernet Franc, a parent of Cabernet Sauvignon, which famously has strongholds in both Bordeaux and the Val de Loire. Here the blend is 75% Cabernet Franc with some Petit Verdot and Petite Sirah. Think violets, mulching leaves, woodland berries, brambles, redcurrant leaves, cool earth and a hint of the forest floor. The unusual name comes from the addition of grape stems back into the fermentation process to give more backbone, impact and colour (Cab Franc is somewhat lighter in both colour and tannins than Cab Sauvignon, California’s most planted black grape variety, for instance). Liveliness is the wine’s middle name. Just the red that’s needed for a classic beef stew, aged Gouda, and rosemary-rubbed pork tenderloin. It’s vivid, delicious, and very classy; a bear hug in a glass for a glacial winter evening. Try it if you like Loire Cab Franc; you will be pleasantly surprised. Gorgeous.
Did you know? California at a glance*:
- Running just over 1000m north to south, California has a huge climatical range
- California makes 81% of U.S. wine and is the world’s 4th largest producer
- U.S. wine exports (over 95% alone from California) reached $1.29bn in winery revenues and 377m litres (41.9m cases) in 2020
- The top export markets for California wines in 2020 were Canada (no.1), $424 million; United Kingdom (no.2), $236 million; the European Union’s 27-member countries (no.3), $191 million, followed by Japan (no.4), $80 million and Hong Kong (no.5), $64 million
- According to Damien Jackman, co-director, California Wines U.K. and Ireland, “Following three years of volume growth, the U.K. market now represents 38% of total global exports of U.S. wine”
- Over 80% of California’s wine is produced in a Certified California Sustainable winery
*Source: key industry data is available at www.wineinstitute.org/press-releases Wine Institute is the only U.S. organization promoting wine at the state, federal and international levels.
TIPPLE TIP…And if you love apple pie at this time of year, try Tokaji Aszú. It’s a brilliant match. Aldi’s Specially Selected Tokaji 5 Puttonyos 2017 (£12.99, 50cl) is a steal and a wonderful Hungarian treat to enjoy with a box of milk and plain chocs.
Follow James on Twitter @QuixoticWine
